Restless in Rest: Down the Pacific Coast

What kind of society is this, where I can bike up to a house, knock on the door, and after brief introductions with the homeowner, hop in their shower, put my dirty clothes in their washer, eat their food, and sleep in their bed? I feel like Goldilocks, only I asked first. Still, I did invite myself in. I don't fool myself into believing that this experience is truly a representation of American society as a whole, but it is fantastic that I have found these kinds of people across the entire country. We are only brief guests in their lives as well as in their homes, but these hosts always find time for us.

Staying with Tonia and Hal a second time!
Two of the best people.

Making myself at home has become natural. I think nothing of rifling through a fridge (if they offered it), or stretching out on their couch. As I write this in my journal, I am sitting next to my host Lauren, who I met 10 minutes ago, sharing contented silence as she reads and I write. There is a lot of observation and imitation as well- do they wear shoes inside? Are smart devices used or ignored? Are feet acceptable on the coffee table? It is a fun balance to try to be the perfect guest while being able to relax and have fun.

At the same time I am learning what it is to be a host, taking mental notes on what I love from my hosts so I can pass it forward in the future. Offering lots of tea. Being able to listen and tell stories. Knowing and articulating my own needs and boundaries. One host said "you can interact with us as much or as little as you want. If you want to eat and hit the hay, or stay up talking, we're happy with it." At that host's home we found time to both be separate and take care of our own needs, as well as learn a great deal about the geology of the Oregon coast, looking at maps and bike routes.

Sometimes the host is like an aunt or uncle, treating us with wonderful food and asking about our trips, and sometimes the host is like a good friend, and we go exploring or stay up late talking about hopping trains. The best method is to be open for anything, ready to accept and give, talk and listen. You never know where you will end up.

Hiking around Blacklock Point with Kenny,
Caleb and Quinn, three great hosts

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So much has happened. In a departure from what this blog usually contains, I feel a larger need to describe where I am and what I am doing, now that the coast to coast trip has finished. This will be a larger post.

Eugene:
All in all, I spent almost three weeks in and around Eugene. I went blues dancing three times, contra dancing once, made lots of food, ate lots of gelato (Talenti No. 19, Salted Caramel, the best flavor), made ice cream, upgraded my bike, and spending lots of time with Kyle and Adrian at the Gooble Dell.

Chelsea and me at the Florence coast, at the
culmination of her ride.

Trip #2: Pacific Coast Trail
Chelsea and I are heading down the coast now on Highway 101, which is often only a hundred feet or so off the ocean. We are treated to giant surf, foggy sea stacks, and incredible views. It feels good to bike south and take time to see what is here on the left side. I feel now like it would have been an insult to the beauty of the this section of Oregon to have only spent one day on its shore, and only in one spot at that.

Looking out over mushrooms and sea stacks

I finally bought a plane ticket home. I will be flying out of Oakland, CA, on the 16th of November. That said, we have decided not to make a goal out of it and to take time and have fun. If I need to make up distance to get there on time, I would take a bus rather than rush this section.

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I am writing this from the Stansell's, in Gold Beach, OR, with Chelsea's host brother from her time in Belgium (he is spending his year abroad in Oregon), and I have traveled 5800 miles.

If I had biked on interstates, and gone in a relatively straight line, I would have already hit the coast and be back in New England.

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Highlights:

Staying with Tonia and Hal twice because I returned to the Florence coast with Chelsea
Exploring Blacklock Point for a day with Kenny, Caleb, and Quinn, a host and his two best friends, finding shells, exploring cliffs, climbing sea stacks, and getting lost.
Spending the night on the second most western point of the continental US
I cannot explain how incredible it is to bike along the coast, with mountains our left side and foggy sea stacks in the incredible Pacific Ocean on the right. Tied for the number one view of this trip with the 12,150ft view from the top of Rocky Mountain National Park.